If you’ve hiked the rainforest and hoped to catch a photo of the elusive bird no one will believe you saw, you might be disappointed to find your telephoto isn’t up to the task. Scanning through your camera lens can be an exercise in futility as you struggle to zoom in on the right branch.
If you have one of our recommendations on best spotting scopes for photography, however, you’ve removed headaches from your imaging process.
Spotting scopes are an adaptation of telescopes, designed to bring super high-powered tele advantages while allowing you to take nature photos through the lens. They work with all camera types, from a smartphone or point and shoot to a mirrorless or DSLR. Technically, capturing a digital image through a spotting scope is known as digiscoping.
Finding the scope you want to work with on a regular basis, though, takes consideration. Unlike the photo terms you’re familiar with, spotting scopes carry definitions and labels with unfamiliar meanings.
Here’s our take on the best spotting scopes for photography digiscoping in a variety of conditions, along with more information on what you’re assessing.
8 Best Spotting Scopes for Photography
Best Overall – Straight: Vortex Optics 11-33×50 Razor HD
- Body Type: Straight
- Objective Lens Diameter: 50mm
- Eyepiece Choices: Fixed
- Magnifications: 11-33x
- Minimum Focus Distance: 7 ft.
- Weight: 1.56 lbs.
If you’re looking for a spotting scope to function as a lens in afocal photography (attaching the camera directly to the spotting scope), this Vortex extends your reach while making shooting easy.
The eyecup on the eyepiece folds back to accommodate those of us who wear glasses or extends to provide the full field of view. It is accurate at incredibly close distances, making it good for small creature imaging close-up as well as at a distance.
Magnification is smooth so you can spot your subject with a low setting and zoom in when you’re locked on. The focus is two-tiered, macro for fast adjustment and micro for fine-tuning. Users praise this unit and have few complaints, other than a bit of sluggishness in cold temps.
Best Overall – Angled: Vortex Optics 20-60×80 Diamondback
- Body Type: Angled
- Objective Lens Diameter: 80mm
- Eyepiece Choices: Fixed
- Magnifications: 20-60x
- Minimum Focus Distance: 22 ft.
- Weight: 2.94 lbs.
If your objective is angle shooting for afocal photography and you will be using a tripod, this Vortex version gives you the advantages of distance.
Reviewers note it performs well in low light situations and is surprisingly clear even at full magnification. The eyepiece can be swiveled to adjust your 45-degree viewing angle to meet your positional needs.
The single focus knob covers fine focus adjustments. Heavy-duty construction adds weight but is known for its durability. Users note you will need the 80mm version (it also comes as a 60mm) to achieve the exit pupil ratio photogs desire.
Best for Rapid Moving Subjects: Celestron Ultima Zoom 80
- Body Type: Modular
- Objective Lens Diameter: 80mm
- Eyepiece Choices: Straight or angled
- Magnifications: 20-60x
- Minimum Focus Distance: 26 ft.
- Weight: 3.56 lbs.
This combination from Celestron on its Ultima objective lens base is known for its ability to adjust and focus quickly to capture rapidly moving subjects.
It may be the best selection for non-nature photography, such as airshows and auto races. While it is a heavier weight, its light price point makes it ideal for someone beginning to learn about digiscoping or wanting a scope for those situations where they can’t secure it all the time.
Reviewers note that despite the weight, the scope is ergonomic and can be used for handheld imaging. Its components are waterproof to meet your outdoor conditions. Users note it is exceptionally sharp at full zoom, which is not always the norm with maximum magnification.
Best Close-Up Fast Focus: Zeiss Conquest Gavia 85 with 30-60x Eyepiece
- Body Type: Modular
- Objective Lens Diameter: 85mm
- Eyepiece Choices: Straight or angled
- Magnifications: 30-60x
- Minimum Focus Distance: 11 ft.
- Weight: 3.75 lbs.
This modular system offers a range of combinations between objective lenses and eyepieces to cover a range of imaging needs. This specific mix features a wide field of view and the ideal exit pupil ratio for clear nature viewing. An astro eyepiece is also available to expand your photography repertoire.
One unique feature is the effective temperature range for this equipment, from -4 to 145 degrees Fahrenheit. Nitrogen gas inside keeps your lens from fogging and guarantees waterproofing. Users love the rapid focus capability of the Zeiss system and say its clear imaging performance even in low light situations is worth the price tag.
Best Pro Level Modular: Swarovski STX 30-70×95
- Body Type: Modular
- Objective Lens Diameter: 95mm
- Eyepiece Choices: Straight or angled
- Magnifications: 30-70x
- Minimum Focus Distance: 16 ft.
- Weight: 4.41 lbs.
This specific blend of modular units is one of the standards from this premium spotting scope innovator. You can substitute a narrower objective lens or a different magnification eyepiece or get both straight and angled eyepieces to vary the configuration for your situational needs.
Users note the optics are amazing on this scope with little distortion of any kind, even at extreme settings.
It is heavy and it is pricey, but its optical quality is why it’s rated as the best by the pros. The tripod attachment plate is on a slide, making it easier to find the center of gravity when mounted, and thoughtful placement of the zoom ring makes it easy to use.
If you plan to expand your digiscoping work to new ranges of conditions, begin assembling the modules for your pro kit with this well-matched combo.
Best Crossover Premium: Celestron Regal M2 100 ED
- Body Type: Angled
- Objective Lens Diameter: 100mm
- Eyepiece Choices: Fixed
- Magnifications: 22-67x
- Minimum Focus Distance: 26 ft.
- Weight: 5.00 lbs.
This unit’s claim to fame is the ability to do it all, from distance nature photos to casual astronomy and everything in between. The Extra-Low Dispersion (ED) glass puts it on par with high quality camera lenses in optical performance.
The tripod mount rotates around the body, allowing you to adjust the scope on a portable tripod at the best vantage point for you.
Reviewers recommend the dual focus methods, coarse and fine to zero in on prime sharpness with smooth movement. It is heavy, so correct center of gravity balancing will be a must for good photos. This scope’s images stay clear across its performance range with no apparent image distortion.
Best Travel Compact: Celestron Hummingbird 9-27×56 ED
- Body Type: Angled
- Objective Lens Diameter: 56mm
- Eyepiece Choices: Fixed
- Magnifications: 9-27x
- Minimum Focus Distance: 10 ft.
- Weight: 1.30 lbs.
If you want something lightweight but still solid for digiscoping and easy to fit in your travel photography backpack, this Celestron can make travel easy.
Despite its small size, it comes with a regular tripod plate that fits on a tripod, monopod, or window mount, and it can be fitted with a variety of camera adaptors. The Extra-Low Dispersion (ED) designation in the name indicates higher quality optics in this model on par with excellent camera lenses.
Users note that the higher end of the magnification range produces some chromatic aberration. Reviewers love it in low light situations, noting that when viewing through the scope, the light levels are vastly improved over the naked eye.
It is nitrogen gas-filled, guaranteeing it won’t fog under harsh conditions outdoors.
Best Budget: Gosky 20-60×80 (2019)
- Body Type: Angled
- Objective Lens Diameter: 80mm
- Eyepiece Choices: Fixed
- Magnifications: 20-60x
- Minimum Focus Distance: 20 ft.
- Weight: 4.54 lbs.
Don’t let the weight of this setup turn you away. This digiscoping system comes with a table tripod, adapter attachments for DSLRs, point and shoots, and smartphones, and a carrying case. It has everything you’ll need to begin photography of nature and wildlife, human life and the stars right out of the box.
Users note the light quality coming through this objective lens is excellent and resulting images are high resolution. The eyepiece can be rotated based on your shooting needs. It is shockproof if you are prone to rough gear handling, making it a great starter package for those of us learning the digiscoping ropes.
The Complete Spotting Scopes for Photography Buyer’s Guide
What You Should Know about Photography Spotting Scopes
Spotting scopes function as super-telephoto lenses when it comes to your nature photo work. They marry the advantage of that kind of focal length with the ability to point and shoot without searching once you’ve framed your subject. As with tele lenses, not all have the same quality optics or effectiveness in low light situations.
Let’s begin with the amazing part. Digiscope-ready spotting scopes can help you reach a magnification range 20 to 60 times larger than life. That puts them so far beyond super-tele camera lenses, it’s difficult to imagine the detail you’ll get until you see it for yourself.
The total realized focal range of the spotting scope is a sum of the scope itself, the eyepiece, the camera, and the camera’s sensor size, so actual results will vary, but they are in the realized range of 1250 to 3000mm focal length.
Arrays come in straight scopes and angled ones, and both can be used for digiscoping. Straight alignment is terrific at attaching to the camera in place of your regular lens, extending your reach on that one system (known as afocal photography), while angled is easier to use with a crowd of people of differing heights with individual cameras.
You can find an adapter to mount everything from smartphones, to cheap digital cameras, to budget DSLRs (OK, maybe not everything – like an instant camera), or you can shoot handheld through the eyepiece.
Spotting Scopes for Photography | Body Type | Objective Lens Diameter | Eyepiece Choices | Magnifications |
Vortex Optics 11-33×50 Razor HD | Straight | 50mm | Fixed | 11-33x |
Celestron Hummingbird 9-27×56 ED | Angled | 56mm | Fixed | 9-27x |
Vortex Optics 20-60×80 Diamondback | Angled | 80mm | Fixed | 20-60x |
Gosky 20-60×80 (2019) | Angled | 80mm | Fixed | 20-60x |
Celestron Ultima Zoom 80 | Modular | 80mm | Straight or angled | 20-60x |
Zeiss Conquest Gavia with 30-60x Eyepiece | Modular | 85mm | Straight or angled | 30-60x |
Swarovski STX 30-70×95 | Modular | 95mm | Straight or angled | 30-70x |
Celestron Regal M2 100 ED | Angled | 100mm | Fixed | 22-67x |
Objective Lens
Spotting scopes begin with the objective lens which is the front or subject-facing piece. These come in a variety of widths expressed in millimeters, with the wider ones in the range letting in the most amount of light.
That ability to capture more light is important, because the magnification range of the objective lens means you’re working with a longer tube, and that blocks all light from reaching the eyepiece and your camera sensor.
Wider objective lenses translate to more cost, more weight, and a bigger size. Balancing this front piece with your camera hanging on the back end becomes a challenge, but it can be well worth it when you can shoot a picture you otherwise would be unable to get.
Bigger can be better, but it is also more susceptible to mechanical vibration and movement of any kind, so a tripod, window mount or bean bag for the largest spotting scopes is a must.
Outweighing any discomfort or cost, though, you realize incredible distance benefits in your shooting capability, with 1250 to 3000mm as the norm on larger scopes. The sweet spot for digiscoping is considered a distance between you and your subject of between 100 feet away to slightly longer than a football field, the magical 1000 meters (more on this shortly).
A lens size of 80mm seems to give most photographers the best images across light conditions, even at higher magnifications.
Eyepieces
Many manufacturers make modular spotting scopes featuring interchangeable objective lenses and eyepieces. The eyepieces come as straight or angled, producing the body type of straight or angled systems.
In many of the better product lines, the parts may not be interchangeable, but common mags come both straight and angled.
All the magnification magic happens in the eyepiece, which come as fixed magnification levels and variable zoom magnifications. Fixed are not recommended for photogs because they lack framing flexibility. The magic happens for photographers at variable magnifications of 20-60x.
Adapters
Adapters hold your camera attached to the eyepiece. Their purpose is to center the camera over the lens to allow it to capture the image on the sensor.
They are optimized for crop sensor cameras, which means if you have a full frame sensor, your image will appear with vignetting (or set your camera to crop sensor shooting and avoid that problem).
There is an adapter for every type of camera, from DSLR to smartphone. If you have a single camera, the choice is easy, while if you are a guide spotting for a group of people, you might be better off practicing handheld centering for a variety of cameras.
We don’t cover adapters in this article; pick your spotting scope first, then buy the one that brand recommends for your specific camera.
Exit Pupil
Exit pupil is one of those terms that is not intuitive to photographers. Think of it this way – the objective lens is the window, and the exit pupil is the beam of light coming through the window. The higher the magnification level you want to zoom in with, the wider your objective lens needs to be to allow the same amount of light on the beam.
This is a vital point for digital photography, since our cameras need optimal light to capture an image. Some of this can be adjusted through manual ISO settings in the camera (sensor sensitivity to light) and shutter speed (aperture value setting on the camera).
It takes practice to find the best combination on your camera based on what you’re shooting, and you often realize you get the best results by keeping your camera’s settings on manual.
We photogs want an exit pupil value of at least 1.33, which is calculated as the objective value of the lens divided by the maximum magnification amount of the eyepiece. For example, sweet spots of 80mm on the objective lens and 20-60x on the eyepiece magnification produce the exit pupil value of 1.33 (80/60).
If you had a 95mm lens, you could go up to 70mm magnification and produce the same exit pupil value.
Field of View
Recall the magic maximum distance of 1000 meters between the photographer and the subject. A lower magnification amount allows you to see a wider field of view, while the max narrows what you can see. If you’re searching for something in the landscape, you’ll keep things wider to help you find what you’re looking for.
Once you locate the subject, you zoom in, magnifying the subject, which narrows what you can see around it. Spotting scopes are rated according to the standard of how wide the field of view is at 1000 meters. Field of view is of less importance to most of us as we image except when it comes to detecting movement at a distance.
Spotting scopes also have minimum focus distances like our camera lenses do. If you photograph birds in the trees, you aren’t as concerned about how close you can get as when you like to zoom in on insects at a distance. Note the minimum if your usual shooting circumstances make this important.
Spotting Scopes for Photography | Best For | Minimum Focus Distance | Weight |
Vortex Optics 11-33×50 Razor HD | Best Overall – Straight | 7 ft. | 1.56 lbs. |
Celestron Hummingbird 9-27×56 ED | Best Travel Compact | 10 ft. | 1.30 lbs. |
Zeiss Conquest Gavia with 30-60x Eyepiece | Best Close-Up Fast Focus | 11 ft. | 3.75 lbs. |
Swarovski STX 30-70×95 | Best Pro Level Modular | 16 ft. | 4.41 lbs. |
Gosky 20-60×80 (2019) | Best Budget | 20 ft. | 4.54 lbs. |
Vortex Optics 20-60×80 Diamondback | Best Overall – Angled | 22 ft. | 2.94 lbs. |
Celestron Ultima Zoom 80 | Best for Rapid Moving Objects | 26 ft. | 3.56 lbs. |
Celestron Regal M2 100 ED | Best Crossover Premium | 26 ft. | 5.00 lbs. |
Stability Factor
Spotting scopes are hefty in weight because of their significant optics. Like a long telephoto lens, the focal length translates into a certain amount of cumbersome weight. That much elongated weight is difficult to balance and even harder to hold still without something on which to rest it.
If your preference is a portable scope you can tuck into a jacket pocket or pull out of a backpack for quick use, you’ll probably be better off using it as an afocal tool (camera attached). That at least eliminates the two hands holding two portable pieces, both of which are prone to vibration.
If you’re going to use the system for imaging you hope to sell or turn into art, go with a tripod mount to avoid disappointment.
Photo Functionality
Do the pictures taken with a spotting scope look great? They can be phenomenal, in large part because there is no other way to come this close to magnifying your subject without one. Super-telephoto lenses generally available on the market today max out at 800mm (though there are stronger ones in the ‘exotics’ category).
The second advantage to the nature photographer is durability in a range of outdoor conditions. Good to great spotting scopes are not just weather-resistant but waterproof and fully sealed using inert gasses to keep moisture from building up inside.
If you’ve ever found your interchangeable lenses fogging up in extreme humidity, you know what a blessing this is.
Finally, a good scope will last you for years without becoming obsolete or aging out in terms of innovation and technology. It’s priced at a fraction of what a super-tele will set you back. You can continue using the same scope even as your camera body and lens mount change.
FAQs about Spotting Scopes
We can’t emphasize this enough – you won’t be terrific at imaging through a spotting scope right out of the box. It takes practice, along with a solid understanding of the settings on your camera and basic photography terminology and functions.
Even then, each time you encounter a new combination of circumstances, you’ll need to verify what you’re doing using test shots.
Here are some of the common questions people have about using spotting scopes for digital photography. Digiscoping isn’t perfect, as you’ll find softer image results and sometimes more artiness than clarity. It has its place, though, in a photographer or videographer’s gear bag of tricks.
Spotting Scopes for Photography | Best For | Body Type | Eyepiece Choices | Minimum Focus Distance | Weight |
Celestron Ultima Zoom 80 | Best for Rapid Moving Objects | Modular | Straight or angled | 26 ft. | 3.56 lbs. |
Zeiss Conquest Gavia with 30-60x Eyepiece | Best Close-Up Fast Focus | Modular | Straight or angled | 11 ft. | 3.75 lbs. |
Swarovski STX 30-70×95 | Best Pro Level Modular | Modular | Straight or angled | 16 ft. | 4.41 lbs. |
Vortex Optics 11-33×50 Razor HD | Best Overall – Straight | Straight | Fixed | 7 ft. | 1.56 lbs. |
Vortex Optics 20-60×80 Diamondback | Best Overall – Angled | Angled | Fixed | 22 ft. | 2.94 lbs. |
Celestron Regal M2 100 ED | Best Crossover Premium | Angled | Fixed | 26 ft. | 5.00 lbs. |
Celestron Hummingbird 9-27×56 ED | Best Travel Compact | Angled | Fixed | 10 ft. | 1.30 lbs. |
Gosky 20-60×80 (2019) | Best Budget | Angled | Fixed | 20 ft. | 4.54 lbs. |
Is a modular spotting scope better than a fixed system?
The advantage of a modular spotting scope system is flexibility through incremental investments. You buy one or more objective lenses, and each gives you different widths and therefore light sensitivity. You buy one or more eyepieces and have fixed or zoom capability and at different magnifications.
Choice is the primary benefit of the modular brands, while lower cost, becoming familiar with and confident in one combo of settings, and travel photography portability are usually the benefits of fixed units.
In our book, flexibility will be more important to the serious photog upping their game, while the casual user who wants more spotting functionality and ease of use will go for the fixed system.
However, it is a matter of preference and your photography circumstances. It’s sometimes good to test how much you’d use a spotting scope for imaging by beginning with a low-price option.
How significant is chromatic aberration and noise with digiscoping?
While digiscoping allows for some amazing realized focal lengths, they come at a price, and one of the biggest is chromatic aberration.
A symptom of the longer focal length is that telltale purple fringing, the result of the lens being unable to bring all wavelengths of different colors of light to the same spot. Usually, working within the sweet spot of an 80mm objective lens and 60x magnification or less can minimize the worst distortion.
Noise and graininess occur when photos are taken at the extremes of a lens’ and eyepiece’s ranges. The higher the magnification, the greater the distance, the less light allowed in the lens – all produce negative effects on the results. That’s why it’s important to monitor the exit pupil ratio in what you’re shooting.
Is the level of detail the same with a spotting scope and a super-tele?
Clarity will always be an issue when shooting with the same effective focal length from a spotting scope and a true super-tele camera lens.
This is because the spotting scope focal length is a summation of objective lens size, eyepiece magnification, camera and sensor size, while the results on a true camera lens are the result of the lens focal range and the camera sensor size. The former won’t be as crisp and highly detailed.
Within and below the sweet spots, digiscoping can produce phenomenal results. It’s technique as much as anything else. Other factors come into play too, such as stability on a tripod, lack of vibration from shutter release or other movements, and focusing skill.
Note that the autofocus on the camera will not work with the spotting scope. It’s up to the photographer to set a general focus on the camera (ergo, the recommendation to shoot manual settings) and fine-tune that with the focusing mechanisms on the spotting scope.
These can be a single setting, or a combination of coarse (fast adjustments) and fine (slow changes).
What are the optimal camera settings for photography through a spotting scope?
Professionals note the following: manual everything, fast ISOs of 800 to 3200, aperture set to the widest possible, and shutter speed at 1/1000th. Set your camera to silent mode on anything you can and use a tripod for stability. A remote shutter release or a self-timer of 10 seconds helps avoid vibration.
The other factor most recommend is testing the center of gravity of the spotting scope plus camera on the tripod or mount. It will be closer to the camera than you think, and you don’t want to be struggling to keep things still because that creates shake, too.
Shooting when conditions produce the least amount of haze, heat waves, or wind movement also helps.
What’s not to love about spotting scopes for photography?
Some people are discouraged that they can’t produce good images on the same day they take the scope out of the box. All cameras don’t shoot the same through spotting scopes, which makes providing blanket advice impossible. We don’t have space to cover the numerous nuances in technique, and learning those are important to effective photography.
The issue of detail clarity is another point people complain about. You won’t see the fine hairs on the hippo at effective 3000mm focal range with a spotting scope – but then you wouldn’t be shooting more than a blob in the water at that range with a standard 800mm tele lens.
It depends on what you want to photograph and what your tolerance for imperfection can be, given that you could get that close to the animal in the image in the first place.
Selection Criteria for Spotting Scopes for Photography
As with camera lenses, you can learn a lot about a spotting scope from its name. Interpreting the numbering system in names is universal, with the first digits before the ‘x’ providing the magnification range, and the last listing the objective lens diameter (but not all manufacturers put the numbers in the name).
Higher end systems are modular, offering you the ability to build or alter the system to meet your needs.
Spotting Scopes for Photography | Best For | Body Type | Objective Lens Diameter | Eyepiece Choices | Magnifications | Minimum Focus Distance | Weight |
Vortex Optics 11-33×50 Razor HD | Best Overall – Straight | Straight | 50mm | Fixed | 11-33x | 7 ft. | 1.56 lbs. |
Vortex Optics 20-60×80 Diamondback | Best Overall – Angled | Angled | 80mm | Fixed | 20-60x | 22 ft. | 2.94 lbs. |
Celestron Ultima Zoom 80 | Best for Rapid Moving Objects | Modular | 80mm | Straight or angled | 20-60x | 26 ft. | 3.56 lbs. |
Zeiss Conquest Gavia with 30-60x Eyepiece | Best Close-Up Fast Focus | Modular | 85mm | Straight or angled | 30-60x | 11 ft. | 3.75 lbs. |
Swarovski STX 30-70×95 | Best Pro Level Modular | Modular | 95mm | Straight or angled | 30-70x | 16 ft. | 4.41 lbs. |
Celestron Regal M2 100 ED | Best Crossover Premium | Angled | 100mm | Fixed | 22-67x | 26 ft. | 5.00 lbs. |
Celestron Hummingbird 9-27×56 ED | Best Travel Compact | Angled | 56mm | Fixed | 9-27x | 10 ft. | 1.30 lbs. |
Gosky 20-60×80 (2019) | Best Budget | Angled | 80mm | Fixed | 20-60x | 20 ft. | 4.54 lbs. |
Body Type
Body types can be straight or angled. Straight aligns the eyepiece with the objective lens, while angled mounts the eyepiece at a 45- to 90-degree angle to the lens line of sight. Angled offers more flexibility in height when mounted on a tripod and variability when multiple people are using the scope at the same time.
Objective Lens Diameter
Greater diameter equates to greater light allowed in. Many photographers prefer 80mm as it produces the best balance between clarity of images and magnification flexibility. If you primarily shoot subjects that are closer or portability is an issue, you can go with less; keep the ideal exit pupil calculation of 1.33 in mind.
Eyepiece Choices
Modular brands offer straight or angled eyepieces to go with their objective lenses. Fixed refers to the eyepiece being permanently attached to the lens. We list recommended combinations for photographers in our selections.
Magnification
While “magnification” is usually listed in the name of higher-priced spotting scopes, this is not always the case. We’ve called out the magnification to make sure you get what you need for your style of photography. Magnification can be fixed or variable (zoom); zoom is better for photogs, which is why no fixed mags are on our list.
Minimum Focusing Distance
At the other end of our photo needs, we should consider how close we can be to a subject and still be able to focus. This is particularly important if you are shooting small critters or nature features from close range, intent on capturing as many of the fine details as possible.
Weight
Because you’re working with long focal length optics and a unit you’ll be carrying around, you want to consider the weight of the scope by itself, with any adapter and camera attached, and with any assembly of tripod and other equipment.
Consider not only the pounds but the center of gravity when you’re shooting to avoid vibrations. Being able to add an adjustable slide instead of a single-point ball and socket for attachments is a big plus, too.
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